Soundproofing the Small Studio

For one reason or another, whether it’s culture, commerce or community, people all around the world have huddled closer to one another with every passing year.

In 1900, fewer than 40% of Americans lived in and around urban areas. By the year 2000, that portion had nearly doubled, and today roughly 80% of Americans have collected together on about 3% of the total landmass in the U.S.

Unfortunately, many of our building and noise codes are vestiges of an earlier era, when the world was a little quieter and we were all a bit more spread out. Now many cities, New York included, have come to find that excessive noise is the new number one quality-of-life complaint.

For musicians and home studio owners, this buzzsaw cuts in both directions: When sound gets out, it can annoy neighbors and family members. When sound gets in, it ruins takes and breaks concentration.

Often, the best bet is to find an outside rehearsal or recording studio to book by the hour or by the month. But if you own your home or have a long-term lease and a little bit to invest, there are plenty of ways to improve the situation.

What Not To Do

The most common misunderstanding around soundproofing is the idea that acoustic foam panels can help stop sound from getting into or out of a room. In reality, that approach is about as effective as building a spacesuit out of strategically-placed napkins.

Although they may help improve the character of sound within a room, when it comes to blocking sound transmission, egg crates and mattresses don’t work, and neither do wall-mounted sheets of fiberglass. The truth is that there are only two things that can ever do the trick: Mass and Trapped Air. This can only be achieved through real construction with solid materials.

By far, the best way to soundproof a space is to build a “room within a room” – a new, freestanding floor, ceiling and set of walls that are sufficiently massive and decoupled from the original structure. This can be extremely effective, although not inexpensive. Even then, acoustics contractors like Jim Keller of Sondhus often say that there’s “really no such thing as soundproofing – at best, it’s more like sound resistance.”

But with that said, there are steps you can take to improve the “sound resistance” of your room without going all-out.

Where to Start: Doors and Windows

Sound is a lot like water. Wherever it can go, it will go.

If you have a sturdy massive wall, with even one flimsy area or a single air gap, sound will find its way to that weak spot and travel directly through it. The first place to look solve both these problems is your doors and windows.

Interior walls, which are usually made of a single sheet of drywall on each side of a supporting vertical “stud” may have an STC rating of about 33 dB. If you’re lucky, your exterior walls might cut out as much as 40 or 50 dB if they’re up to basic building code. But all too often, your doors may have an STC rating as low as 15dB, providing pitifully little sound protection.

Doors in apartment buildings, even ones that lead into communal hallways, are often entirely hollow. In many cases, they may literally be made of two pieces of flimsy plywood, kept from caving in on each other only by a lightweight honeycomb of  corrugated cardboard.

Soundproof Window by Photo by DumboNYC

Replacing a hollow door with a heavy solid-core wood door can go a long way to improving the overall performance of your room. But remember: it’s critical that the seal of the door be airtight, or sound waves will come screaming through whatever air gaps that remain.

Windows are another common weak spot. Replacing cheap windows with double-glazed glass can do a lot to block out street noise, as well as keep the temperature in the room more consistent.

If you have simple goals, like recording a few extra vocals or guitar overdubs at home without street and hallway noise interfering too much; or if you want to freely practice in your apartment without feeling self-conscious as your neighbors enter and leave the building, this step alone may go a long way in taking your room from useless to useable.

But for those who really need to block sound, this is just the beginning. Improving doors and windows can bring your whole room up to the spec of your walls, but they can’t take you beyond that point.

Soundproofing Walls

If the biggest problem you face is wall-borne sound transmission, replacing or reinforcing an existing wall can do a lot.

In the right scenario, basic upgrades using fairly inexpensive building materials can be surprisingly effective, particularly on interior walls. For the budget-conscious, simply adding another layer of drywall to each side of an existing single-layer wall can make for a measurable improvement.

If you’re able to remove the original drywall and stuff the cavity with basic pink insulation before you double up, this you can take the STC of an interior wall from 33dB up to as much as 45dB, making it competitive with the sound resistance of a basic exterior wall.

Further upgrades are possible as well. They involve additional construction and either A) using more standard materials and eating up more space, or B) switching to fancy boutique materials that cost significantly more, but allow greater isolation while eating up less room.

By sticking with standard building materials like regular gypsum drywall, wood studs and standard insulation, you can take the rating of a single interior wall from STC 33 all the way up to a respectable STC 63. You’d have to either stagger or double up on your studs, thus eating up valuable space, but the materials wouldn’t cost a whole lot – particularly if you only have one critical wall to replace or reinforce.

If you choose to use higher-cost building materials, you can easily achieve these STC ratings without losing any square footage. By replacing standard gypsum drywall with QuietRock, swapping out your wood studs for metal ones, switching your standard insulation out for Roxul, or adding in additional buffering materials like SheetBlock, Green Glue, or Resilient Channel and you can dramatically increase the performance of any wall without changing its basic dimensions.

Boutique construction products like QuietRock cost more, but allow greater STC while eating up less space.

Merely the act of swapping regular drywall for QuietRock can tack on additional 10-15dB in noise reduction, depending on the configuration. Even a mere 10dB drop is equivalent to reducing the sound power by 10 times, and is perceived by our ear as a halving of loudness. Of course, the stuff does cost about four times as much. But, if you choose something like QuietRock to make a simple double wall employing spaced studs and otherwise conventional building materials, you can easily approach STC 75 without adding much else.

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  • Anthony

    Creating a sound proof by building a room within a room can be inconveniencing though it can give one more chances of designing the inside room the way they want it……. for me this is so helpful i think i now got an idea of what i will do for my studio soundproof.!

  • Great article. Has really helped me plan for building my band room in my attached garage (brick wall on neighbor side, plaster wall on house side). Was hoping you could help me ensure I have enough soundproofing going on so that my neighbors (20 feet away) won’t be able to hear my music (at least inside their house). I used a decibel meter app on my iPhone to measure my max db and it’s @ 100db when drums and guitars are rocking. How far down do I need to get this db level (via soundproofing) so that my neighbors won’t hear? We are planning to use 2×6 studs to build a frame inside the garage and use either closed sell spray insulation or 3″ thick strips of pink insulation, double drywall with green glue in between the dry wall layers. We will also replace the door and make it airtight. Is this going to be enough? How many db will this reduce the sound (outside neighbors and inside house adjacent wall)?

  • Bucky Nelson

    Thanks for the information. It can be the best way to sound proof the walls. I have too go with acoustiguard for sound and vibration control devices. Yes this article is too helpful for me to get the best sound proofing solution.

  • Karina Babcock

    Loved the article! I just moved and have an enclosed garage under a ranch that I am trying to turn into my music room/studio for rehearsing/amateur recording of my flute quintet and other small ensembles that would include brass & woodwinds perhaps light percussion and private lesson instruction. The room I have has three cinder block walls (1 w/door to rest of basement and second w/bomb shelter alcove which is poured cement). The 4th wall is the closed in garage door end that appears to be stud wall with sheet rock.
    My primary concern for sound transmission is the ceiling above which is floor to bedrooms. I know I will have to caulk with acoustical caulking as well as insulate. I am not concerned about transmission to outside since it is driveway end and neighbors aren’t that close. Any thoughts here?
    I also would like the to put something on walls that help with energy insulation and enhance the acoustics of the space, but not add to sound transmission. What suggestions do you have?
    Floor and outside walls have received US Open grade sealer, my next planned step was to install Dri-Core flooring to create moisture barrier and provide a sub-flooring to add flooring to. What is best floor material? Hardwood vs. laminate?
    The plan is to add more outlets and heating (forced hot-water) to the space as well. Any thoughts & recommendations are welcome.

    Do you ever take a video walk through of the space and give recommendations?